Best Pruning Saws for Older Trees
Once a branch is too thick for loppers, you reach for a pruning saw. Modern pull-stroke saws — almost all Japanese-influenced now — are an order of magnitude faster than the old push-stroke pruning saws of a generation ago, and quieter and safer than firing up a chainsaw for one branch. We carry one of these in the truck every working day.
Our team’s top picks
Silky Gomboy 240 Folding Saw
- Impulse-hardened blade, brutal cutting speed
- Three-position blade lock
- Comfort grip, sheath included
- Beloved of arborists worldwide
Corona RazorTOOTH Folding Pruning Saw
- 7- or 10-inch curved blade
- Triple-bevelled aggressive teeth
- Plastic-and-metal handle is solid
- Very fair price
Silky Zubat 330 Hand Saw
- 13-inch fixed curved blade
- Saws like a chainsaw, almost — staggeringly fast
- Comfortable rubber grip
- Sheath with belt clip
Silky Katanaboy 500 Folding Saw
- 500 mm folding blade — eats large limbs
- Two-handed grip option
- A favourite of bushcraft people too
- An investment, but cuts what no other folding saw cuts
Bahco Laplander Folding Saw
- 7.5-inch blade, surgical cuts on dry wood
- Locking blade with simple, reliable mechanism
- Lifetime tool
- A bushwalker's favourite as well
What to look for in a pruning saw for thick branches
- Pull-stroke saws cut on the pull only — easier on the wrist and quicker than push-stroke.
- Curved blades cut faster on horizontal branches; straight blades cut better on vertical and undercutting.
- A folding saw is safer to carry but every joint is a wear point — fixed-blade saws last longer.
- Look for impulse-hardened (taper-ground) teeth — they hold an edge five times longer than ordinary teeth.
- Tooth pitch matters: 6–8 TPI for green wood, 9–10 TPI for harder dead wood.
Frequently asked questions
Why are Japanese-style saws so much faster?
They cut on the pull stroke, which keeps the blade in tension instead of buckling under compression. That lets you use a much thinner, sharper blade. The result is significantly faster cutting with less effort.
Folding or fixed-blade?
Folding is safer to carry and easier to store. Fixed-blade is more rigid, so it cuts marginally faster, and has no joint to fail. For occasional use a folding saw is the right call; for daily professional use, fixed-blade.
Curved or straight blade?
Curved blades cut horizontal branches faster because the curve makes more teeth contact the cut. Straight blades cut better in awkward orientations (undercutting, vertical cuts). Most home gardeners only need a curved saw.
Can I sharpen pruning saw blades?
Impulse-hardened teeth (the kind you want) can't be re-sharpened — they're too hard for a file. The good news is they last several years of regular use. When the blade is finally dull, you replace just the blade, not the whole saw.
Bottom line
If you only take one thing from this guide, it is that quality matters more than spec on paper. The picks above have been chosen because our team uses them or trusts them — not because they are the most expensive or have the flashiest marketing. Buy once, garden often.



